No, but you might spend some time driving both a manual and an automatic before deciding which to buy new.

As others have noted, there’s a lot of overlap—and additionally for me a bunch of stuff I’m not very interested in or which wouldn’t fit me well, so I’d keep only:

• The SRPD73K1: it’s nicest-looking dive-style watch of the bunch.
• The Flightmaster: I did all my engineering labs using a slide rule even though it was the 1990s and even the professors thought this was ridiculous; the bezel-size circular slide rule might be too small to be genuinely useful, but it’s still very cool.
• Maybe the SNK80x: it’s cute and small (but really: three Seikos?)
• The PD-1701: I actually have (and prefer) the PD-1644, but you can’t beat the Pagani Design photocopier + Seiko mechaquartz movements for value: inexpensive, amazing specs, don’t need winding, the ticking small seconds is unobtrusive.
• Maybe the Bulova Surveyor: I’d prefer (and indeed actually own) a vintage tuning-fork Accutron, but the smooth sweep of the Precisionist quartz movement is cool and reliable too, and with lume and a quartz movement this is a perfect grab-and-go GADA watch.

So, that means saying bye bye to:

• The small Citzen quartz: a sensible size but I’m not a big fan of this PRX-like look.
• The Citizen diver: the only actual dive watch, but it doesn’t float my boat alas.
• The Citizen C7 NH8391-51EE: I actually like the look of this one better than the Surveyor, but it’s in the same category (black dial GADA watch), has much less lume, and will not be useful as a grab-and-go watch.
• The SSK001: just too similar to (but not as nice as) the SRPD73K1
• Both G-Shocks: just too chunky for my wrist, alas—but I’d keep the 2100 if only it was more like 38mm.
• The small white-dial Seiko 5: I like the white dial but are those gold hands? Also, you already have enough Seikos, and you definitely don’t need two with the non-hacking 7S26 movement.

(If I were you, though, I’d keep the SSK001 rather than the SRPD73K1, and at least one of the G-Shocks.)

What would I get instead? Mainly I’d say that you seem to have quite a bunch of $100–$300 watches, and I think you should consider moving towards fewer but nicer pieces.

• Something from Tissot (e.g. PRX, Gentlman) or Hamilton (e.g. Khaki, Murph) would be an obvious choice.
• You seem like Citizen, and I hear they make some great radio-controlled solar quartz watches—the ultimate in set-and-forget. Jody loves his Chronomaster AQ4030-51A, but if $2K is a bit steep there are other options.

Rather uncharacteristically for someone who is not a fan of the brand, I was actually going to suggest you consider getting a Rolex. Not a Submariner (since you already have several dive watches) but there are plenty of interesting vintage pieces available at (comparatively) affordable prices—the possible catch being that they will mostly be smaller, which might not work for you given that, from the relaxed shape of the pillows in your watch box it looks like you may have a larger wrist.

A chronograph, however, would seem like an obvious choice. That basically eliminates Rolex but the Tudor Black Bay chrono is in the same bracket as your 300M and there are so many other popular offerings from Hamilton, TAG Heuer, Zenith and Breitling.

Personally, though I’d be looking for something a bit off the beaten track. I have a huge soft spot for the Reverso, and though sadly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is out of my price range (and probably yours too) a pre-owned Reverso Gran Sport Chronograph has an earlier version of the same 30 minute flyback chronograph movement and can be had for a fraction of the price.

Or if the curvy, almost-tonneau case is a bit too 90s for you, then the Reverso Squadra Chronograph offers a more contemporary look, or consider the quirky-but-classic Reverso Memory with a traditional Reverso art deco front dial and an unusual monopusher 60 minute timer on the reverse.

The watch I have most obsessed over, and was recently fortunate enough to be able to purchase, is the Reverso Duoface (classic medium small seconds).

I remember seeing ads for early versions of the Duoface in glossy magazines when I was in my teens, but what piqued my interest in owning a Reverso was, ironically, Watchfinder’s video about the Baume et Mercier Hampton 10528—which totally sold me on rectangular dress watches, and which attracted a few comments mentioning the Reverso as an obvious inspiration for B&M’s design.

For nearly three years I considered all the many different options: vintage or modern? Monoface, duoface, memory, or display caseback? Of course the Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque and Hybris Artistica Gyrotourbillon are probably my true grails, but even eliminating all the completely impossible choices still leaves so many amazing models to choose from.

Eventually I narrowed it down to a set of four models all of which were reasonably available (but only one currently in production) and made a spreadsheet to compare them. Obsessive checking of review videos followed, mainly to try to get a sense of whether the two “large” models would fit on my rather slim wrist; eventually after trying a few different models on I decided that the medium would be a better fit. That narrowed it to two, and although I love the front dial of the Q3838420 I much preferred the back dial of the current Q2458420.

Unfortunately the medium size is relatively rare on the pre-owned market (especially in the UK) and this past May when, after many months of scouring eBay and Chrono24, I saw a post here that JLC was going to be putting their prices up again I bit the bullet and enjoyed a very delightful but mildly impoverishing afternoon at the JLC boutique.

Of course no grail is ever an end, so what next?

Curiously enough it’s probably the Mondaine Stop2Go. There’s a new 41mm version available now available for preorder—and I might—but what I really want is one of the early, ~36mm versions, now long out of production and rare enough I’ve seen only one come up for sale in the last several years.

Even more humbly, I also want a SARB033—but as a matter of principle am unwilling to pay more than its original MSRP, so this quest is one I expect to continue for some time, despite prices at last moving in the right direction.

I noticed that in comparison to the earlier two iterations, they seem to have removed what I think were applied indices. That’s kind of a bummer as the dial looks flatter and a tad less striking now.

I hadn’t noticed that, but you are right: although the indicies still have some three-dimensionality, it looks like they’re now just printed onto a raised portion of the dial, rather than being applied.

Also they replaced the cool joystick-like crown with a push button actioned by a supplied pen, which functioning is yet quite unclear to me.

It remains somewhat unclear to me even after watching the video!

Is it thinner than the old model? It looks so, but I’m not sure. I think the case design looks better overall.

Comparing old with new, I think it is slightly thinner. Unfortunately I can’t check the specs as the page I posted now no longer has buttons to pre-order, the three models previously shown having been replaced with generic “YOUR PRODUCT’S NAME £99.99” buttons. I wonder if Google found the page before they were actually ready to announce the new models, or if they have just been swamped with pre-orders and decided to take the order pages down least they end up with too many orders that can’t be fulfilled for months…

But I really don’t get how this is supposed to be set and how it will work in practice.

It seems too complicated to be set on a regular basis, which makes one hope it is an especially high-accuracy movement.