.
Probably Sinn, Archimede, Laco, Stowa, Damasko, M.A.T, Forban, the list can easily continue but basically any brands that needs some research to be known and wont be known by an instagram ad of some sort
(IMO the price of a watch doesnt attest of any knowledge or interest as everyone knows Rolex and Omega but few know about Vostok)
Sinn. It’s like a secret society. If you know, you know.
I believe the word you are looking for is ‘cognoscenti’
From the Latin meaning ‘the smell of cogs’.
Cognosinnti
But also Soviet watches are garbage hahaha. Still want a Vostok Amphibia.
I gifted my brother who’s a non watch guy a vostok scuba dude and an skx. He just wears them without knowing anything about watches and gets stopped here and there by fellow enthusiasts thinking he’s a watch nerd lol.
Yep Laco owner here ,love watches.
In general, the slightly obscure ones. You buy a Rolex and maybe you are into watches, maybe you just want to show off money. But something like Sinn, IWC, grand seiko, Blancpain, Glasshutte Original, etc would show you like watches because nobody who isn’t into watches knows what those are
Agree with all those except IWC. Way too mainstream of a brand. Out of those, someone wearing a blancpain would IMO likely have a high chance of being a real enthusiast
Yeah, I 100% agree with you re IWC
The only person to have ever commented on my IWC Pilot Chrono was someone wearing an IWC Mark XVIII lol
Similar story except the guy was interested in purchasing a Mark XX so he was jazzed to talk about mine lol
How many people have you met wearing an IWC that weren’t into watches? In my experience it’s been exactly 0.
Honestly I’d say if they have a watch and it’s not Fossil, Timex, Casio, Citizen, or Orient- they’re probably at least a little into watches.
If they’re wearing Timex, Orient, or Citizen they may be newly into watches and getting advice here on where to start!
Has Orient become popular outside of watch nerds?
It’s one of those watches people get when they want a nice watch but don’t actually know anything about watches I’ve noticed. Often as a graduation present or something.
IWC is likely the brand i see most often, after apple and rolex. Cant imagine all those people are particularly into watches.
But maybe its just because i am in zurich. So people here might just like it because its swiss, but german swiss, not french swiss. About the closest thing to a local brand there is.
Ehh… I’d add Omega, Rolex, and Tag to that list. They are so heavily marketed it would be safe assume the wearer could easily fit into the mindless consumer crowd.
IWC was all over the new Top Gun movie
For me it’s just hard to imagine there’s an appreciable number of people who noticed that and then decided to buy an IWC without having any other stake or interest in the watch game.
I think a conversation could be had about what defines a “watch person,” because I could see Navy pilots seeing that movie and feeling like they need an IWC in order to be a “cool” pilot in the same way John Wick inspired legions of nerdy dudes to buy microtech switchblades and 2011 pistols. But at the same time it takes a certain level of awareness of a hobby to know the different brands and select one, regardless of whether or not the motive is silly.
I don’t know, I’m just spitballing because it’s more fun than working on presentation slides.
I thought John Wick got people to buy Blanton’s
Sure, but IWC still has more mainstream presence than say Nomos or Sinn. Some rich person not into watches might walk into a store and say “I want the top gun watch”.
🤷🏻♂️ I know one person with an IWC, and they are not a “watch person.” Most days they wear no watch, or Apple Watch.
Yeah one of my bear buddies was gifted an IWC portugeiser for 40th which he had identified as a want but knows Jack shit about watches
Bear buddie?
Lol 🐻
I have a very poor opinion of current Blancpain because of their attempt to market the brand has having this long, storied uninterrupted history. Blatantly false. Now a Vintage FF or heaven forbid a Tornek Rayville? 🤯
Anything that’s not an overly popular brand like Seiko, Citizen, Rolex (can be a hit or miss) or a fashion brand like MK or Gucci.
With the exception of JDM exclusive models
So just a few hundred brands then? 😂
Junghans
Especially a Max Bill!
Not totally agreeing. I’m a designer and many in our community (and art, architecture, etc) buy it without knowing jack shit. Same as with Nomos. Doesn’t mean they’re bad! On the contrary, beautiful clean designs, but attracting people who love that certain aesthetic, which are quite a few.
I’ve been a graphic designer for 12 years. I need the Bahaus Max Bill Automatic in my life.
This one with same/similar leather is the one I’d get. Chrono if it wasn’t a bit too large for my wrist.
Mine should arrive tomorrow. Is my wife going to be annoyed being with me and lots of people will stop me to ask/talk about it? 😆 I am very excited and can’t wait to wear it to this one monthly meeting I go to wear everyone is always trying to one up each other with their BS “fancy watches”.
Quality vintage - I don’t necessarily mean expensive, but vintage that collectors know for their great movements or meaningful position in the industry’s history
Vintage Heuer - either a 60’s Carrera or anything with the Cal 11/12 automatic 👌
Came here to say Tag Monaco.
Yep. Anything vintage on a wrist and you can be sure that either that person is in to watches or that he or she is in to that special watch with a story.
Also, don’t bother applying your 2023 standards to the vintage watches you see. A 1951 Bulova Treasurer would have been a significant play for a mid-century working man.
Vintage Pie-Pan Constellation on a BoR 👌🏻
Grand Seiko, Sinn, or best option: Recessence.
Damn near crapped myself when I saw one on a coworker
Also spelling: Ressence
First time seeing one (not in person to be fair) and I thought it was something you’d get on Alix or Wish. Then I went and looked a little closer. Holy buckets! They are gorgeous and well done and the price tag to go with it.
Great now I need to get one of these. I really like the 1^(2) white. Only problem is there isn’t anyone selling them in Canada.
Whoa… thanks for that. Didn’t know they existed. Added to the list!
Ressence
TIL about a new watch and holy shit
Me too! Jeepers cripes….incredible 🤯
MKII or original?
And I knew I spelled it wrong. But was lazy.
Most affordable way to get that look.
Double thank you for introducing me to Ressence and also for inadvertantly introducing me to YoureTerrific on YT. He does a great video describing their Type 3.
These things are nuts! I first searched them on Chrono24 and thought, “yeah, those are neat in a kind of comic book styling way…but…wait…how does this thing move? That hand can’t possibly rotate…hold up…the whole thing rotates and every dial is a seperate disc!!!”
That is fucking crazy!!
It’s been my grail for years, but I’ll never be able to afford one.
One of the coolest dials out there. Got to try a few on a couple years ago
Wow, I’ve just looked up a Ressence. The type 1 is now my grail watch. The others are beautiful but are too futuristic looking for my style
A Zenith El Primero Any Grand Seiko A Glashutte Original Panomatic Any Jeager Lecture
I could go on…
Hopefully, you’ll do it with punctuation!
I do like to be lectured on my Jeagers
I tried an El Primero on and it was so good.
I had the exact opposite experience. Was ready to buy it too. Lugs sat really high on my small wrist and did not enjoy fit. Too bad bc I really liked it otherwise.
I’m planning to buy a Zenith El Primero and a Jaeger Reverso. Amazing watches.
Grand Seiko for sure. Anyone who’s just buying expensive watches for conspicuous consumption would balk at the Seiko nameplate, but anyone who’s really into watches recognizes the quality and gorgeous design.
Good take!
Then I would ask them to remain still for a while so I could just fixate on the smooth spring drive movement. Shhhhh…… just one more time around.
LOL
Grand Seiko is definitely an “inside baseball” pick.
Driving a Lexus says absolutely nothing about the driver. Same with Grand Seiko.
Driving an LFA, GSF or an LC 500 says a lot. Each of those cars competes with a very specific set of other vehicles, and the one you choose says something about you. Lexus has a position and a brand identity that competes with other manufacturers and people choose them based on that.
FP Journe or Lange
You will NEVER see one in the wild.
Unless you hang in those kind of circles.
I’ve seen one FPJ last week at the Kinkaku-ji in Kyoto, a chronograph no less. And right after bumping into Kevin O’Leary (he had a YG Daytona Oysterflex). That was a pretty wild hour!
Japan seems to be the place to go then :)
Mind you I’d probably be trawling the watch shops for JDM only citizens and maybe some vintage Seikos
My grandfather in law has a pretty stellar collection and his Lange is my favorite out of all of them. You can see as many videos as you want but when you see one in person it’s a whole different level.
They’re glorious. I love when things go under the radar and any non-watch enthusiast would have no idea what it is. Not to mention that my favorite part of it is the movement and no one else can see it. Which one does he have?
He has a Lange One Moonphase. Not exactly sure the reference. We bond a lot because we’re the only watch guys in the family. I walked into their house one day and he literally ran over and said check this one out I haven’t showed you this yet, then he proceeded to almost drop his Rolex Daytona with a meteorite dial right on the tile floor. He didn’t drop it but it was funny.
For luxury, JLC - they’re watches are so understated for the most part, but incredibly significant as a brand within the watch world.
For a lower end brand, NOMOS, Sinn, Hamilton. All are solid mechanical watches that are a step into the watch world and easily overlooked for those not into watches.
I love JLC. Will never afford one tho lol.
My Rolex friends in Miami made fun of my Sinn.
They are pedestrian horologists then…
Tell them that all of their Rolexes make them look like mindless drones.
“Rolex” “friends” in “Miami” - someone in Rolex Marketing just gapped their pants. This is an ultimate trifecta for that team, no?
I have a JLC Master Control Calendar and it’s probably my favourite watch. I wear it often and absolutely no one other than the biggest watch nerd I know, knows what the brand is. Even people who know Grand Seiko and microbrands like Kurono and Anordain shrug their shoulders when I mention what JLC is.
Hamilton did a Far Cry release and has done bunch of movie tie ins. They are mainstream enough
Hamilton has always been known as “The Watch of Hollywood”
I guess it’s true that nomos is a relatively lower end brand than JLC, but seeing nomos and hamilton in the same bracket of “lower end brand” is a bit nutty (no shade to hammy, i love khaki auto)
NOMOS has a wider range of price, but the NOMOS Club can be bought right around 1k.
Honestly any of the brands people talk about here. Other than Rolex, maybe omega, maybe tag, and maybe Seiko for the middle class, it’s all watch nerds. If I see a Tudor I’m striking up a conversation.
SKX007
Even the new Seiko 5 srpds or gmts. I have one and watch people either think it’s an SKX or use it to strike up conversation about watches. But it always seems to be watch nerds specifically. I honestly never thought people would give it as much attention as they do.
The new SSK’s are the SKX of the future. I picked one up at launch and it’s been my daily for a year.
Agreed. I think I’m gonna grab the red/blue chapter ring style one.
Pretty much any SKX. I got a 009 back when they were under $200, wish I’d got a 007 at the same time.
Got my 007 for 180 bucks back in 2017! Love that watch and will never sell it. Too many life milestones with it on my wrist
If you’re into that style, check Citizen’s Promaster NY00’s (with the winder at 8 o’clock), aka Fugu. They’re autos with a very similar size and feel to the SKXs.
Something with a manual wind movement shows they really care about the mechanical aspect of watches.
Rado
Skx009 or skx007
